Friday, June 6, 2008

The Stars

Well, I'm sorry. I don't have any pictures for today, but that's because the interesting things happened at night. We returned to Moab from Glenwood Springs and decided to take a sunset shot at Green River Overlook. This spot looks down on the area we were driving in a couple of days ago. It's an absolutely HUGE view and made a really beautiful sunset shot. Unfortunately, the pictures are all on the big cameras, so we can't post them to the blog. After sunset we joined a park ranger for a stargazing program. He was very knowledgable and helped to pick out some major constellations along with night direction finding. After he left, we took a star trail shot. This kind of photography is a little different than conventional daytime shooting. You have to set for a 20 minute to 3 hour exposure. This means a lot of time wait and looking up. At the end of the exposure, hopefully you have a photo that shows the stars moving in the sky. They look like bright streaks, and it's a really neat effect. Greg got an especially good one where you can actually see both the canyon below and the stars above. Star trails are his new favorite form of photography, so that will probably translate into a lot of time staring up into the night sky.

OK, now it's time to change gears. I have several neat things you can do to keep up with us. The first is commenting on this blog. At the end of each post there's a little link that says comments. If you click on it, you can write a comment on the post or just let us know that you're reading if you like.

The second cool thing is my favorite. I will post a few sets of geographic coordinates. If you go to google and click on maps, you can copy these coordinates into the search field and see exactly where we've been. The cool part is if you click on "sattelite" to get sattelite imagery of the location. There's a lot of fun you can have looking at the world from space right on your computer. So here's the first few sets of coordinates.

38.5833,-109.8164

38.4763,-109.923

38.3743,-109.9654

38.257,-109.8655

38.3877,-109.8014

OK, let me know if you have any trouble with these, and I'll try to make the directions clearer. Have fun!

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

The White Rim (or How to really understand what the word "DESERT" means)

Well, I promised an update after our backcountry adventure and here it is. We started down the White Rim Road Sunday morning bright and early recently resupplied with 10 extra gallons of gas tied to the roof and no less than 15 gallons of water. The beginning of the road is 35 or so miles from the nearest services of any kind, and from there it's over 100 miles off pavement back to Moab, so this kind of advance preparation is absolutely necessary. You must have all water, food, gas, and shade you will need for four days, and we had it all. The road drops from the Island in the Sky into Shafer canyon via a steep series of scenic switchbacks down to the the next rim. This area is made of a harder rock than the surrounding red sandstone, so it remained relatively intact as the Colorado cut its way into the canyon. This phenomenon creates a second canyon rim of white rock, hence the White Rim. We paralleled the river to the south, but the canyon is so deep and wide that we could only see it at select points. The country is very scenic with huge buttes of red, orange, and black rock, and below pinnacles of various shapes and sizes surround the river. We reached our first campsite a little after noon and pitched the tent. About the time we were finished, we realized that it was getting hot. We set our chairs out in the shade and relaxed, but soon the wind started to howl. It was sustained at least 30 mph with much higher gusts. You might think that wind would help in 100+ degree heat, but this was a hot desert wind. It basically blows dust and sand in your eyes and cakes it all over your body. The next thing we knew the ladder to the tent was moving. We were mildly surprised and decided to anchor it with a rock. A little later, the wind moved both the ladder and the rock! We caught it and added another rock. We figured that 35 lbs. would anchor it just fine. In the meantime, we decided to make a sandwich. In the process of making it, the soft, moist bread became hard and stale like toast. After lunch we learned that we could deal with the heat and the wind if we stayed in the shade and used the truck as a wind block, but just about the time we started to feel the worst was over we hear a crash. We looked up, and the wind had blown the tent completely back on itself in spite of our anchors. At this point all we could do is laugh and right the tent. After sundown the wind finally quit, so we watched the stars for a while. Scorpius rose bright in the south. We figured out how the big dipper actually is a bear, and Sagitarius was riding across the horizon as we turned in. Our second day was the longest driving day. We changed our philosophy a little and started driving at 10 am rather than the early starts we'd been striving for. We reasoned that we should be outside while it's cool and calm and drive during the middle of the day. The scenery only got better on day two with formations so fantastic that they didn't seem real. The southernmost point on the road was a real highlight. The canyons of the Colorado and Green Rivers converge here, and the point offers 360 degree views of the canyon. It's a truly majestic sight to be absolutely surrounded by these canyons. That night we camped near the White Rim with a view of the Green River. The sunset was spectacular at the edge of the canyon. We watched the river slip along through the canyon as cliff swallows wheeled and performed acrobatics in the wind. The sun descended below the opposite rim and left a rainbow of colors on the few clouds in the western sky. Then we woke up early for sunrise and watched the warm morning light bathe the cliffs in pink and orange. The air was calm and it was so quiet you could hear the swallows fly by. We started driving late again and explored a slot canyon on the way to our final campsite. Occasional rains had carved an extremely narrow canyon into the White Rim to reach to the river. Patterns in the rock revealed where the water swirls, and the inside feels like a smooth slide. We followed the Green River often right at its side to our turnoff into Taylor Canyon. Five miles up this canyon we camped looking up to rock pinnacles called Moses and Zeus. We arrived at camp around midday again, and there was no shade to be found, so we hid from the sun under a rock for about an hour until we could strategically position the truck to give us sufficient shade. It was another hot afternoon, but that night it began to get cloudy and windy. We looked back down the canyon and saw rain falling from the dark clouds like fingers of mist reaching down, but the rain never hit the ground. The air sucked the moisture, and the raindrops evaporated before they ever reached the earth. It was really a dissappointment. The next morning we broke camp to return to Moab, looking forward to a shower and anywhere they serve icewater. The drive back was uneventful other than a warning light on our dash. We called our friends at Land Rover and they told us to go to the nearest dealer, so we spent the afternoon taking the truck to Glenwood Springs, where we are now waiting for news on what caused the problem. It's been a busy few days, but we've really enjoyed them.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Providence

Providence is the only word I think can describe today's occurance. We've had a hard time finding space because Moab and Arches National Park are so crowded right now, so we decided on a new spot, which we found out was also full. We were fairly depressed and descided to punt and take the easy road to Canyonlands National Park to see a sunset and hopefully find a campground no one else wanted. We walked into the visitor's center for the park and discovered that there were permits available for campsites on the White Rim Road. This is probably the premier backcountry four-wheel drive trip in the area and one of the best in the world. Circumstances seemed to be orchestrated so that we would land in exactly the right place at the right time.

So plans changed and we've made some last minute preparations in town. Tonight we move to our forward staging area, and tomorrow morning we descend into the canyon of the Colorado River to traverse the lower rim right through the middle of the canyon to the confluence with the Green River where we will turn north and upstream. The road traverses the last area in the United States to be mapped. It was simply a blank spot until the 1870's when John Wesley Powell ran the Colorado for the first time. So that's our trip. We will be out of contact until the fourth, but then we should have some great pictures and stories to share.

--Jason

Just as a reminder, I do read over all these and put my two cents in. Jason just has a way with words....

I'm Greg Lewis and I approve this message....(dunno why, just had to do it again)

Friday, May 30, 2008

Made it to Moab

Sorry it's been a little while, but we've been fairly busy. In New Mexico, we stopped to see El Malpais National Monument. The park is an old volcanic area with lots of lava flows, but the most unique features are the caves. When lava flows, sometimes it cools on the outside but forms an underground river. This leaves behind lava tubes -- our caves. We explored one and saw the entrances of several others. When we entered the cave, a blast of cold air shocked us. It was close to 90 degrees outside, but it must have been below 50 in the cave. Why the caves remain this cold year round is a mystery to me. We camped near Grants that night.




The next day we continued on our road to Moab passing throuh Gallup, NM and turning north to Shiprock. Here we entered the beginnings of red rock country, getting a taste of what's ahead. The other notable stop was Four Corners. For a mere $3 per person you can pay the Navajo to let you stand on the border of New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, and Utah. It's a bit of a tourist trap, but after you've done it, you can say that you've been in four places at once.


We drove hard to Moab and secured a campsite next to the Colorado River for the night. Campsites are very competitive here, but we did pretty well. Thanks for sticking with us. Theres much more to come.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Cattle, Camels, and Coyotes

We're now on I-40 west of Albuquerque. The land has finally begun to look like the real West, but I'm jumping ahead of myself.

Yesterday we had lunch with more friends in Dallas and then headed out for Amarillo. It was certainly a late start, but it was a good drive. On our way, we saw something truly shocking. Greg suddenly yelled, "Camels!!!" I told him he was crazy, but sure enough there was a herd of camels next to the road minding their own business. I wonder if they know they're in Texas rather than the Sahara. I guess you never know what you'll see on the road. We also hit a milestone, our 1000th mile. That makes one of probably eleven. We'll see.

We made Amarillo at dinner time and went straight to the Big Texan. For those of you who haven't heard of it, the Big Texan is probably the world's most famous pit stop. Their claim to fame is the free 72 oz. steak, if you can eat it in an hour that is. A sign in the restaurant reads, "The Free 72 oz. Steak. Many have tried. Many have failed." The sign is true to its word. We saw one guy try his best and fail miserably on the pedestal in the middle of the dining room. They display you, the steak, and the time remaining for everyone to see and either encourage or heckle. The steak is even bigger than I imagined. It's the full size of a platter and an inch and a half thick. All in all it's a unique experience.





We encountered a bit of a problem in Amarillo. We couldn't find a campground that would accept tents. You'd think that a tent was a menace to society the way some people looked at us, so we settled for a motel.

We woke up to see fog out the window. Amarillo is on the high plains, but blowing mist and fog were certainly not what we expected. The fog lasted all the way to Albuquerque, where New Mexico finally starts to look like New Mexico. We caught our first glimpse of mountains and several bluffs. This feels like the beginning of the Southwest we all know and love.

It's time to get off the highway to go explore, so Hasta Luego!

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

In Dallas

Sunday we made it to Dallas as planned. The driving went surprisingly well. Greg took over in Anniston, AL and continued until the Louisiana state line. He was an absolute machine. I took over from there to the outskirts of Dallas, and we started looking for a place to stay. The 800 miles seemed like a good day, not excessive, but significant. I think driving this distance at a stretch will really help our sense of scale.

Yesterday, we visited with old friends here in Dallas. My buddy here is studying to be an Eqyptologist and can already read hieroglyphics and hieratic, which is about the coolest thing imaginable, so we talked about dead languages and Greek gramatical structure (I feel I have to clarify, Jason wrote that), while eating Memorial Day barbeque (Now that was more my speed--Greg).

Today the plan is to have lunch with another set of friends and then hit the road again. I think the goal will be Amarillo, but we'll see how far we get. Dinner at the legendary Big Texan is certainly an incentive. I suppose we'll just have to keep moving and find out where the road leads us.

--Jason

My name is Greg Lewis and I approve this message.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

On the Road




We're now officially on the road and have begun our trip. Today the plan is to drive from Atlanta to Dallas. It's a good start for the first day, and it gets us West fast.

This week has been busy. We've been saying goodbye to family and frieds since about Tuesday, and Thursday Greg graduated from high school. Congratulatons! We packed the truck Friday and Saturday and discovered that we could fill it all the way up. After a steak dinner and a good night's sleep we said our final goodbyes and started driving at about 6:30.

There are many days and many updates to come, so I invite you come back often to see what the Lewis boys are up to.

--Jason